Things to Do in Oktoberfest Grounds

Hofbräu-Festzelt at night

Inside the Hofbräu tent after dark the ceiling drops. The brass section doubles. Hops and roasted malt cloud the air. Thousands stand on benches, arms linked, belting "Country Roads" in four languages. Waitresses in dirndls weave through, slamming fresh mugs onto pine tables.

Oide Wiesn historical section

Behind the giant rides the Oide Wiesn smells of beeswax and candied almonds. 1920s crank-handle carousels spin to scratchy gramophone tunes. Dark festival beer follows an 1812 recipe, nutty, slightly sour. It's served in ceramic steins that warm to your palms.

Bavaria statue climb

Slip outside to the 18-metre iron Bavaria statue. The spiral staircase reeks of rust and hot steel. At the top the fairground shrinks. Coaster lights spin. Tent roofs look like coloured marshmallows. The distant Alps glow pink in sunset haze.

Herzkasperl-Folk stage

Under low canvas the Herzkasperl stage hosts slap-dancing, alpine horns, stand-up in broad Bavarian. Pretzels fly overhead in woven trays. The plank floor bounces as 200 people Schuhplattler in leather soles.

Midnight ferris wheel ride

At 11 p.m. the beer tents dim. The Ferris wheel keeps turning. From the top car muffled oompah fades into carnival techno. The whole Wiesn reflects in the glass of your swinging pod. Burnt sugar drifts up like warm fog.

Ludwigsvorstadt: walk south ten minutes to the tents, fall onto your bed after. Rates triple but you'll thank yourself at 2 a.m.

Maxvorstadt: university quarter, cheaper pensions, still two U-Bahn stops away. Streets smell of bakery yeast at dawn.

Haidhausen: across the river, village-like squares, U4 straight to the Wiesn in eight minutes without hotel surcharges.

Sendling: working-class, good beer gardens for warm-up. Sleeper trains rattle the windows but prices stay sane.

Au: leafier, near the Isar. You'll hear night-time fairground fireworks echo over the water.

Giesing: grittier, student share-houses. Fastest S-Bahn connection to airport if you're flying out Sunday with a hangover.